Gearing choices

Written By Audra Adair

Gravel Gearing Choices: How to Gear Your Bike for Real-World Gravel

Gravel riding is beautifully unpredictable. One day you’re spinning smooth dirt roads for hours, the next you’re grinding up loose climbs, battling wind, or pacing yourself late into a long race. That’s why gearing matters more in gravel than almost any other discipline.

There’s no single “perfect” setup — but there is a right setup for your terrain, fitness, and goals.

Here’s how to think about gravel gearing in a way that actually makes you stronger on race day.

Start With the Terrain, Not Trends

Before you worry about 1x vs 2x or what your favorite pro is riding, ask yourself:

  • Are your climbs long and sustained or short and punchy?

  • Is the terrain smooth and fast or loose and steep?

  • Are you riding at altitude?

  • Are you racing or just riding big adventure days?

Northern Arizona gravel, for example, rewards range and restraint. Long false flats, steady climbs, and late-race fatigue mean you want gears that keep you spinning — not grinding.

1x vs 2x: The Real Trade-Off

Both systems work. The key is knowing what you’re giving up and what you’re gaining.

1x Drivetrains
Pros:

  • Simpler setup

  • Fewer mechanical issues

  • Excellent chain retention

  • Great for technical or muddy conditions

Cons:

  • Bigger jumps between gears

  • Can feel limiting on fast flats or long descents

Best for:

  • Hilly or technical gravel

  • Riders who value simplicity

  • Adventure riding and MTB-style gravel

2x Drivetrains
Pros:

  • Tighter gear spacing

  • Better cadence control

  • More top-end speed

Cons:

  • More complexity

  • More adjustment and maintenance

Best for:

  • Rolling or fast gravel

  • Riders who care about cadence efficiency

  • Long races where pacing matters

Neither is “better.” The right choice depends on how you ride.

The Most Important Gear Is Your Lowest Gear

This is where most gravel riders make mistakes.

Ask yourself:

Can I spin comfortably up the steepest climb on the course after five hours of riding?

If the answer is no, your gearing is too tall.

A few common mistakes:

  • Choosing gearing based on ego

  • Copying road setups

  • Forgetting how fatigue changes everything

Spinning saves your legs, your back, and your ability to ride strong late in the day. There’s no prize for grinding at 55 rpm.

Cadence Is a Weapon

Good gravel gearing lets you:

  • Stay in the middle of your cassette

  • Maintain a smooth cadence

  • Avoid cross-chaining

  • Reduce drivetrain wear

If you’re constantly hunting for the “right” gear, you’re wasting energy. Smooth cadence equals efficiency — and efficiency wins long gravel races.

Altitude Changes Everything

At altitude, power is harder to come by and fatigue sets in faster. That means:

  • Lower gearing matters more

  • Spinning becomes essential

  • Grinding costs you more than you realize

This is especially important for riders traveling to races like Village Gravel or Leadville from lower elevations.

Race vs Adventure Gearing

Race setup:

  • Prioritize cadence control

  • Protect legs for late-race efforts

  • Err on the side of easier climbing gears

Adventure setup:

  • Maximum range

  • Comfort over speed

  • Gears that let you keep moving no matter what

Neither is wrong — just be honest about your goals.

Final Thought: Gearing Is About Longevity

The best gravel gearing doesn’t just get you up climbs — it helps you finish strong, ride pain-free, and enjoy the process.

Choose gears that support:

  • Consistency

  • Durability

  • Confidence

Gravel rewards patience, smart decisions, and riders who think long-term. Your gearing should reflect that.

If you’re unsure whether your setup is right, that’s normal. Gearing is personal, and it evolves as you get fitter and more experienced.

Ride smart. Stay curious. And don’t be afraid to spin.

— Audra
Race Relentless Coaching / Village Gravel

Audra Adair
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